MANILA, Philippines - Clawing my way up the crags as I dangled 10,000 feet over the frozen steppes of Kharijarik in the Altai Nuur - the Mountains of Gold in Bayan Ulgii, I braced myself against gale-force winds that threatened to peel me off the rock face. Above me, my two wolf-dog escorts barked in frenzy, urging me to follow them over the peak.

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